Basic Haircare Care
Deep Conditioning:
Deep conditioning is a crucial step that should not be skipped in your natural hair regimen. Whether you are a male or female, you should be deep conditioning with a fortifying treatment. It allows your strands to get a blend of moisture and protein needed to have healthy hair. And isn’t that all our goals? Yes!
So, let’s begin:
Purpose of Deep Conditioning:
Deep conditioning is a crucial step that should not be skipped in your natural hair regimen. Whether you are a male or female, you should be deep conditioning with a fortifying treatment. It allows your strands to get a blend of moisture and protein needed to have healthy hair. And isn’t that all our goals? Yes!
Our hair goes through a lot on a weekly basis. If we’re not applying heavy gels, then we’re applying heavy oils. If we’re not trying to slick it back into a pony, then someone is playing in our hair. If we’re not sleeping on our satin pillowcases/sheets, then our hair is rubbing against our cotton clothes. With all these different scenarios, our hair is being damaged in the long run. After a week of toiling with us, it’s exhausted. And the way for us to revitalize, replenish and renew our hair is by deep conditioning it. You can liken your deep conditioners to a facial treatment for your “hair”. It will revitalize each hair strand with hydration, strength, shine and so much more than the hair needs. It allows us to be renewed from the previous week and refreshed for the upcoming week ahead of styling. And as such, it should not be missed on a weekly basis.
What to Look for:
When purchasing deep conditioners, you have to look for key organic ingredients. These are ingredients such as water, oils, butter, alcohol, and much more. If you can’t pronounce the name of the ingredient or know the purpose, then it’s not wise to purchase it. In addition, the fewer ingredients it has, the more beneficial it is for your hair strands.
How to Do It:
Deep conditioning is an easy process once we’ve found the right product.
We told you what to look for when purchasing, now it’s time to know what to do.
- Start with freshly shampooed and conditioned hair. This makes it easier for the product to penetrate the hair shaft with all of its “goodness”.
- Part your hair into 2, 4, or 6 sections. The number of sections depends on your preference, what your hair needs as well as the time you have on your hands.
- Spritz each section with water. Water is important for taking care of any type of natural hair. And in this case, it allows the deep conditioner to be absorbed into the hair shaft properly. It is able to penetrate as well as trap the h20 molecules that are already on the hair strand.
- Scoop as much as is needed for each section. Depending on the density and length of your hair, the amount being applied will vary. If you have thick strands, long hair, and/or even a long beard, then you will need a lot of deep conditioner in order to penetrate your hair strands. However, if you thinner strands, shorter hair, and/or a tapered cut, then you will use less product. Regardless, ensure to use enough needed to coat your strands.
- Spread the product evenly throughout each section. You can do this using the praying hands' method, Denman brush, or your comb. This allows the product to reach a hair strand that it would not have been able to reach if you just applied it regularly. As well as, it is able to penetrate the driest or thirstiest strands.
Leave-In Conditioners:
The next form of conditioner is the leave-in conditioner. Based on the name of it, you can tell what it is for. For the upcoming week ahead, our hair is usually bare and exposed to the various environmental elements. This includes sun, wind, rain, snow, or even hail depending on which part of the world that you reside in. So, our hair must always be protected. One of the ways to do this is to maintain the moisture levels of our hair by using a leaving conditioner.
Hydration:
Water broken down to its chemical nature is h20. These molecules attach to our hair shaft and immerse itself in it. If you notice whenever you wet your hair whether on wash day or at the beach, your hair begins to elongate and stretch. The molecules are immersing themselves into it and bringing it to life.
What To Look for:
The key ingredient, which is usually the first ingredient, is W-A-T-E-R. It can be any variation of water such as deionized, plain, distilled, coconut, aloe vera, or even rose water. However, some of us may not have leave-in conditioners that contain water. In cases like these, you can opt to use a spray bottle of water or aloe vera juice.
How to Use A Leave-In Conditioner:
- Part your hair into sections depending on the length of your hair. If you have shorter hair such as bob, tapered cut, or because you recently did the big chop, you may not necessarily need to part your hair. The less hair, the fewer sections you need. However, if you have waist-length hair, then you will need sections to ensure that steps #2 and #3 can be done.
- Apply your leave-in conditioner section by section. Whether you have a liquid or creamy product, employ the rule of thumb depending on what your hairstyle will be for the upcoming week ahead.
- Spread the product evenly throughout each section. You can do this using the praying hands' method, Denman brush, or your comb. After applying the product, using any of the products to evenly spread the product. This allows the product to reach a hair strand that it would not have been able to reach if you just applied it regularly. As well as, it can penetrate the driest or thirstiest strands.
NOTE:
If you’re doing a protective style or a wash go you will need to add more leave-in conditioner than if you were doing say a regular twist or braid out. The protective style will have your hair going weeks without any form of hydration. As well, wash and go’s will have your hair covered with lots of gel to hold your curl pattern in for days. So, there is no access to hydration to your hair without messing up your hairstyle. After our curls are hydrated, we need to ensure that the water stays in it.
This is what we call ………………
Moisture Retention:
As a man/woman with natural hair, you may hear a lot of people say that moisture retention is important. And it is, however, if your hair is not hydrated how will the moisture be retained? So, after hydrating your curls with your favorite leave-in conditioner, you seal it in. Sealing it in allows you to do the LOC/LCO method. This is a technique that seals in hydration added from the L (LIQUID) in the LOC/LCO method. If you want more information, see the next blog post on the LOC/LCO Method.
How to Oil Your Scalp properly:
Oiling your scalp can be a time-consuming process. However, if you knew the complete benefits then this is a step that you would add to your natural hair regimen. Whether you choose to do it on a daily or weekly basis, your hair will thank you later for it. It’s best to do it when you are preoccupied with catching up on your favorite sitcom. It’s a tedious process so might as well have some fun while doing it.
Step by Step of Oiling Your Scalp:
Tools:
- Fine tooth comb
- Hair Growth Oil (DIY or Store Bought)
- Sections Clips
Method:
1. Split your hair into sections.
Split your hair into as many sections as you can by using your section clips. The more sections the better as you will be able to get full coverage of your scalp.
2. Start section by section.
Start with a mini section and use your fine-tooth comb to part it into a smaller section. This smaller space allows you to start covering your scalp mini section by mini section.
3. Add a few drops of your favorite oil to the area.
Add a couple of drops of your growth oil to the area then massage it in. Massaging helps to increase the blood flow to the scalp to encourage healthy hair products.
4. Part another section of your mini section and go again.
[REPEAT until entire scalp is covered]
NOTE:
If you have short hair, then you will not need to section your hair because it would be a waste of time. The shorter strands make it easier for you to reach your scalp to apply the oil and massage it in. However, if you prefer sections then do what works for you.
Best Oils to use for Oiling Your Scalp:
- Castor Oil
- Jojoba Oil
- Olive Oil
- Amla Oil
- Bhringraj Oil
Here are the benefits of massaging your scalp:
1. Promotes healthy hair growth.
The oils are rich in essential and growth oils that will encourage hair growth because of the minerals in it. So, if you are looking to grow out a short cut, grow your beard, or even reaching the goal of waist-length hair – massage your scalp with your favorite growth oil.
2. Soothes an inflamed scalp
Once the scalp is inflamed, it usually is not responding as it should to certain products. It’s causing flakes, hair loss, psoriasis, dandruff, itchy scalp and so much more. Oiling your scalp often aids in calming down the scalp. The scalp is receiving the minerals needed from your oils for it to be functioning in an optimum manner.
3. Makes massaging your scalp easier.
No one wants to massage a dry scalp. Therefore, it is best to do it using oils as it will lubricate the scalp so the pads of your fingers can glide over the scalp easily. Massaging the scalp encourages blood circulation to flow to the scalp quicker to grow your hair faster.
4. Encourages sebum production.
Oiling your scalp encourages your scalp to produce sebum is natural oil produced by the scalp needed to coat your new growth. And some of us can stop the production of our sebum if we’re washing our hair too often, with harsh shampoos or vigorously. Thus, causing our follicles to be damaged or no oil to be produced. Applying oils consistently allows the scalp to absorb the oils and produce even more.
LOC/LCO Method
Our natural hair is naturally parched.
The sebum that is produced by our scalp that is to moisturize, strengthen, add shine, and promote hair growth cannot travel down to the end of the hair shaft. Why? Due to the curly nature, it usually gets stuck in the crevices of our curl pattern. Therefore, you usually feel the roots of your hair feeling oily or greasy. While the rest of your hair strand is dry. Hence, we do it manually use the LOC Method.
The LOC Method is the best moisturization technique for naturals because it allows your curls to be hydrated for a long time. In the method, you not only moisturize your tresses, but you seal it in. Sealing is a big part because it allows the moisture to stay in for the length of the style or to until your next wash day. For this method, you would use the following products in the order of the acronym.
LIQUID
The first step is to apply the liquid to your hair, specifically water.
The way a plant loves water, so does our hair. It is the best hydrator for our parched strands. The h20 molecules will attach to the hair strands. Once you spritz your hair ensure to work it in using the praying hands' method. This allows the molecules to be evenly spread against all the hair.
Liquid Options to Choose from: Water, Aloe Vera Juice, and Leave-in conditioners.
OIL
Then, you follow up with oil.
Let us take you to chemistry class as oil and water do not mix. Once they are placed in the same container (or test tube) the oil will find its way to the top of the water. The oil will cover the water and prevent it from escaping or leaving. Similarly, to how it works in chemistry, it works the same way on our hair. The oil will trap the h20 molecules into the hair strand to keep the moisture in the hair strands. After you apply the oil, ensure to work it in using the praying hands' method so that every h20 molecule is trapped under the oil. And more importantly, use a lightweight oil. These oils will hold the hydration in without weighing down your curls.
Oil Options to Choose From: Grapeseed, Olive, Amla, Jojoba, Coconut, and Castor Oil.
CREAM
And the final step is to follow up with a cream.
So, I know what you’re thinking, if we sealed using an oil why do we need another step? Well, we need it to act as a barrier. If you apply oil and water to your hair and let it sit, the air in the environment may take away some of the moisture due to the heat or humidity levels where you are. Hence, we seal again using a cream. The cream seals in everything i.e. the hydration being trapped by the oils, additional benefits from using the oil as well as minerals from the cream. It keeps the curls full of hydration so that it does not escape and stays hydrated for a long time.
Cream Options to Choose from: Shea, Grapeseed, and Cupuachu Butter.
The LOC method is for any hair type, length, density, or shape.
It allows our hair to stay hydrated for a long time to maintain certain styles as well as the health of your cuts, tresses, beard, or Rapunzel looking hair.
How to Shampoo:
Now we know that some of you may skip the shampooing process because you think the same job can be done with your favorite conditioners. Wrong, especially for our males. Shampoos and Conditioners are not the same. They both serve varying purposes within our natural hair regimen. So no, they are not a scam from manufacturers to get your extra “Coins”.
Purpose of shampoo:
Shampoos are used to cleanse your scalp. After a week of styling with various products (including gels and oils), our scalp is being bogged down. The excess products will clog the pores in our scalp and prevent sebum from being produced. As well as, preventing key minerals from our products from being absorbed into our scalp. Also, it covers our hair shaft by just sitting on it. This prevents hydration from getting in and moisture from getting out. And as such will cause product build-up, itchy scalp, or another scalp issue.
So, the best solution is the shampoo.
How it works:
Shampoos are made with cleansing agents that will remove the product build-up from our scalp and hair shaft. it is able to remove the most clogged pores, excess sebum, excess oils, dirt, and debris. as well as, a product that has been sitting on your scalp and hair from prior weeks back.
What to Look For:
Stay far away from shampoos that contain sulfates. Sulfates are deep cleansing agents that are not good for your scalp. They are commonly used in cleansing products for our household. For example, dishwashing liquid for our soiled plates, laundry detergent for our soiled clothes and so much more. so why would we want that on our scalp? The sulfates will strip our hair of everything. This isn’t what we want as we need some of our natural sebum to be retained. The sebum is the natural oil that is produced by the scalp needed to coat our new growth. If that is removed - how will our new growth receive the hydration and protein needed for its initial survival? Doing this makes the rest of the hair shaft dry. And when our hair is dry it becomes susceptible to breakage. Also, whatever is applied to our hair especially our scalp is later absorbed into the body. So, to avoid all of the drawbacks, just avoid them at all costs.
Efficient way to shampoo:
- Get a sulfate-free shampoo
- Apply a glob of it into your scalp.
Now depending on the type of shampoo, you use it will create the sud naturally regardless of the amount you use. While others may need a few more pumps to get going. so, the size of your glob really depends on your hair. And, if you are a male don’t forget to add some extra to your beard as well. - Massage the shampoo into the scalp using the pads of your fingers or a shampoo brush. Massaging helps to lift the product and dirt from off the pores of the scalp. Also, it aids in promoting blood circulation to the scalp. The suds aid in carrying minerals to the scalp so if you massage it then it will be provided faster and more consistent.
How to Condition:
You may or may not like this step on wash days because it can be time-consuming.
However, the job needs to get done. We need to apply hydration to the hair shaft which was removed from the previous step - shampooing (linked previous post). Conditioning your hair comes in three parts which are the rinse out, deep, and leave-in conditioner. In this blog post, we'll be detailing the rinse-out conditioner.
Purpose of condition:
After cleansing your hair of product, dirt, oil, and some form of hydration - you need to replenish the hair shaft. The hair is stripped and needs to be revitalized almost immediately. Restoring it with hydration aids in making styling easier, maintaining the moisture levels of your hair as well as preventing breakage, knots and tangles.
Why are Conditioners Cannot Be Used as Shampoos?
As you can see, conditioning is made to replenish your hair. And it will not remove layers of product build-up sitting on your scalp and hair because of the main function of the conditioner. Although we are sold on clarifying conditioners that do both, they do serve two different purposes so how can they do the same task?
How does it work?
I know you’re reading the name “rinse out conditioner” and you’re thinking how a rinse out conditioner provides hydration to the hair. As with most conditioners, the first ingredient should be water. Water is the best hydration for our hair shaft. The water molecules will trap in the hair to impart hydration. Secondly, it's rich in fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols (or acids) attach to the hair shaft to provide it with the hydration that it needs. As well, conditioners contain oils and butter which will trap the hydration that is already in your hair strands. Therefore, by the time you rinse it out your hair is already replenished, restored, and revitalized for the week ahead.
Additional Benefit of Conditioners – Aids in detangling
Another benefit that it provides is it makes the hair easier to detangle. The conditioner contains Cetearyl alcohol which gives the conditioner the slip. Yes, that slip that we all know and love because it just absorbs into the hair shaft and all our tangles melt away. If you love that slip, then you should be looking out for Cetearyl alcohol in your conditioners. It gives the conditioning the thick yet creamy consistency \ to make liable to the hair. As well as, it is made up of fatty alcohols that penetrate the hair shaft with the hydration that it needs. You can detangle with your fingers or any of your favorite detangling tools. Examples of these include a shower brush, wide tooth comb, or even a Denman brush.
How to Condition Your Hair:
- Split your hair into 4 or 6 sections.
The number of sections depends on your preference, what your hair needs as well as the time you have on your hands. The more sections you do will take up time however you’re able to keep your hair knot free and vice versa. - Drench each section with water
Once your hair Is wet it makes it easier for the conditioner to apply and penetrate the hair shaft. - Apply a glob of conditioner to your hair shaft from tip to root
We won’t give a limit on how much conditioner to use because the more the better. - Spread the product evenly throughout each section.
Do this using the praying hands method from root to tip to ensure that each strand is thoroughly coated with the conditioner. - Detangle using your favorite detangling tools:
Now it’s time to remove all of the knots and tangles since your last wash day. You can use tools such as the shower brush, wide tooth comb, and/or denman brush. As well as, you can use your fingers as it is the gentlest tool of them all.
